For thousands of years the Dalaman River thundered out of the mountains to the North East of here, then took a great sweep to the West to meet the sea where today the famous tourist town of Dalyan is located in the SW of Turkey. Over many millennia fertile alluvial flood plains were created that attracted early settlers and herders. Then, some two thousand or so years ago an earthquake changed the course of the Dalaman River to roughly where it is today. Prone to seasonal flooding, these plains were unsuitable for settlement, but all around at the foot of the mountains, communities sprang up. The most famous is Caunos at Dalyan, but here, in what is now Okçular it is possible that an earlier settlement took root.
On a beautiful rocky “island” just a short walk from the centre of our village can be found the long forgotten remains of what archeologists believe was a city state. Here there are olive terraces, barely recognisable tombs and massive walls atop rock buttresses. This fortress guarded the entrance to Kocadere Valley, a sheer sided canyon that would have given shelter and provided an escape route. We know that in years past this canyon, now open to the sky, was bridged over making Kocadere a mighty cavern some seven kilometres long!
The fertile Okçular Plain with Lake Köyceğiz in the background, and part of the Ancient City walls.
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Originally known as Kapız, the settlement was small, maybe no more than 20 houses, to be found in the area of the rocky “island”. In Kocadere there was a windmill and in another, smaller valley called Kizildere there was a watermill. Both have now disappeared but are ample evidence of the fertility of the flood plain and the industry of this small community.
About 1960 two drainage canals were dug that would change the area forever. Land that had flooded every winter now became viable year round. People began to move the short distance from Kapız and the surrounding areas to the fertile plain, building new homes and new, more prosperous lives. They were joined by others and soon the settlement had become a village with a new name...Okçular, which means “Archers”, Kapız was a distant memory. Just ‘that area over there, where the graveyard is’.
Today, Okçular is a community of some 2000 people made up mostly of small, family farms growing cotton, citrus fruits, salad crops, sesame and maize for animal feed. Some people work in tourism, as boat captains, waiters or chefs, others are carpenters, electricians, shop keepers, drivers, civil servants, lawyers, doctors or students. In fact, just about every profession and trade is covered by Okçular folk. But, whatever else they may do, most of them have roots that go deep into this farming community. The chap you see driving a tractor today, will tomorrow be the respected vet who treats your pet dog or your prized calf.
Our village has just emerged from a year long battle to prevent outsiders from turning Kocadere into a quarry and cement fabrication. Without consultation with us they had obtained licenses that were a death sentence to many of our orchards, our beautiful valley and our way of life. With determination and guidance from professionals we have succeeded in saving Kocadere Valley, our farms and our livlihoods.
Projects are being put together to repair some of the damage done when an access road was smashed into the entrance of Kocadere. Native trees, bought from grants and donations will be planted by local children who will learn a little more about the importance of loving and caring for our environment. Already Mother Nature is repairing some of the insult done to her in the name of money, it will take time, but time is a great healer.
Application has been made to give this biologically rich and diverse area Specially Protected status. With many hundreds of different species of plants plus the incredible variety of insects, mammals and birds, it must be protected and preserved for the generations to come.
Others villages have been able to learn from our experience. Because of the high media profile we were able to generate during our battle, communities from all over Turkey have been in contact for advice and support. Many of those communities have succeeded in stopping unwanted, destructive “development”. Today we are all stronger and more united, determined to protect our social values and our environment, we invite you to share in the wealth of our community. “BUYRUN!”
With a little patience there are many delightful and interesting creatures to be seen
