In the crisp air of a winter’s day, as you gaze northwards, the mountains step away towards the snow covered peaks of Sandras and Çal Dag. Behind you to the south and right on our doorstep rises the more modest but equally beautiful mountain of Kösten together with the gorge of Kocadere. It’s here our focus lies.

For those who love rambling and nature there are some stimulating walks to be had especially during springtime which here begins early January. You may be dodging the odd deluge, or truly spectacular thunderstorm, but in this mild region everywhere will be carpeted with flowers in colours to die for.

Wild Anemones flowering in profusion in Kocadere Valley

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Anemones thrive here in every colour from white to pink to deep red, blue to purple with all shades in between. Orchids abound together with cyclamen and in late spring, tulips, the national flower of Turkey will be found. Here too is critically endangered Alkanna muglilae. One local flower lover photographed hundreds of different varieties of flowering plants over a two month period in and around Kocadere. Because herbicides are almost unknown here, fields and hedgerows are a riot of colour and variety in flora and fauna.

Respected Field Biologist Paul Hope has started on a study of Kocadere’s flora and fauna. His research will take at least another year, and will result in a “Walkers’ and Nature Lovers’ Guide”. The sponsor of this web site has agreed to fund its publication, it will be available locally with all proceeds going to our Village Association. Meanwhile we heartily recommend Paul’s wonderful book “Walking & Birdwatching in South West Turkey”. To contact him: paulhope at superonline.com Walking is safe with common sense preparation. It’s impossible to get lost for long because you are bound to come across a road or track that’s in regular use. Follow it in either direction and you will arrive ‘somewhere’ pretty soon.

Walking in Paradise

The entrance to Kocadere Valley

A good starting point for exploring the area is the Ley Ley Restaurant on the main Ortaca-Dalyan road. It is also the perfect finishing place as the meals here are excellent and very reasonably priced (ask the locals). Ask the staff for some directions, make sure you have some water, a snack and then follow your nose. Don’t be afraid to “trespass”, this is Turkey not UK! And, if your timing is right, the local farmers will be offended if you don’t sample at least one of their oranges. Just don’t take a bagful unless invited.

As you walk these quiet trackways through orchard, valley or mountain, keep your eyes open - on the ground, around and above you. There are buzzards, bee eaters, rock nuthatch, red squirrels, fire salamanders (don’t handle), badgers, foxes, wild pig (keep clear), hawks and harriers (the list is endless), flocks of goats and the odd local. How many different sorts of flowers will you see? Remember your camera so you can take a picture and not the flower.

Wandering around Kocadere and the tracks up into the mountains you’ll begin to realise the value of this unpolluted area to local people. Everywhere you look are to be found herbs that are a rich source of vitamins and minerals in the diet of villagers as well as providing income from sales at the markets in Dalyan and Ortaca.

Here there is bay, thyme, nettle, sage, oregano, dill, fennel, mint, mustard, wild garlic, camomile, rose-hip, myrtle, filiz, sorrel, and countless others. Delicious chanterelle and morel mushrooms appear after the first rains at the end of Summer. When you add the fruit of the countless olive trees and the citrus orchards, it’s easy to appreciate why the villagers fought so hard to keep “development” at bay.

Our fields and orchards, and our  valleys and mountains are a paradise for any nature lover, painter, bird watcher, photographer, walker or “lazer”. There are things and views to appreciate at every turn in the path. Sit quietly at many a beautiful spot around our “rocky island” as evening draws in and you’ll have every chance of seeing Mr Brock the badger as he pokes his nose cautiously out of his set and sniffs the air before setting off for a night of foraging. Everywhere you look there’ll either be something to fire your imagination or your curiosity, or else a spot to relax and let the cares of the “daily grind” wash right away.

What you won’t hear as you explore the nooks and crannies, or sit to soak up the sun and the view, is muzak, ghetto blasters or, “I’m on the train, call you later”. It’s impossible to feel harassed or stressed here. Here the negative will drain away like bath-water down the plughole to be replaced by a warm and glowing peace. Who knows, if you listen hard enough, you might just hear the sound of your own inner voice above the twitter of  birds or the chittering of a red squirrel.  Can you smell the blossoms yet? Magical, isn’t it?

If you fancy a ramble around our area, but lack the ‘gear’ then a good start would be a visit to DALYAN İZ ... opposite the Junior Özalp Hotel. Here you can rent or buy quality trekking and walking equipment. Here too you will find the books of local environmental campaigner June Haimoff, saviour of the Dalyan beach and turtle nesting site, and they sell Paul Hope’s book ‘Walking and Birdwatching in SE Turkey’.

When you return you can also enjoy a pot of tea and a slice of the best cake around!

Speaking of tea, the Kedi Cafe in Dalyan has a great village-like feeling, together with The Turkish Village/Turkish Cottage shop they are a haven from the bustle of Dalyan.

June’s books are here along with a book exchange in aid of the local street animals.

Chris and Mubrure will make you very welcome and have a wealth of knowlege about Turkish houses and way of life. Visit their website: www.theturkishvillage.com